4 Places to Eat in Split, Croatia

maj 5, 2015 at 16:57

Bokeria, Split, Croatia

Today's forecast: 99% chance of wine

Nogle gange dukker der halvfærdige indlæg op, som jeg af en eller anden grund aldrig blev helt færdige med. Det her indlæg af et af dem, men det betyder ikke, at I skal snydes for lidt restaurant- og madtips til Split i Kroatien. Nu er sommeren jo lige rundt om hjørnet, og der er mange gode grunde til at besøge smukke Kroatien i din sommerferie. Se bare mine tidligere øhoppe-indlæg 1 og 2. Her kommer yderligere fire lækre grunde til at besøge havnebyen Split.

 

Inden jeg kom til Kroatien var jeg flere gange blevet advaret om, hvor elendig deres mad var; ‘Dårlig pizza og kedelige pastaretter’, men som jeg også skrev i det her indlæg, så blev jeg (heldigvis) glædeligt overrasket.

 

For mig er mad, restaurantbesøg og nye madoplevelser nemlig en stor del af at rejse. Faktisk en rigtig stor del. Jeg kan ikke altid huske, hvad jeg så eller oplevede, men dagenes madoplevelser kan på magisk vis kæde dage sammen med andre oplevelser eller steder. Sådan har jeg det også med Split, jeg kan huske, lige præcis hvor jeg spiste og hvad jeg fik, og så falder resten af turens oplevelser på plads lidt efter lidt.

 

English: Some times a half written post pops up that for some reason hasn’t been completely finished. This post is one of those, but that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t get a few tips for restaurants and great eats in Split, Croatia. Summer is just around the corner and there are lots of reasons to visit beautiful Croatia during your summer vacation. Just check out my previous island hopping posts 1 and 2. Here are four additional delicious reasons to visit the port city Split. 

 

Before arriving in Croatia I’d been warned about how miserable their food was: ‘Bad pizza and tasteless pasta dishes’ like I wrote about in this post, so I was (fortunately) pleasantly surprised.

 

Too me food, restaurant visits and new food experiences is such a big part of traveling. A major part as a matter of fact. I can’t always remember what I saw or experienced on a given day, but the same day’s meals can magically help me combine days with other experiences or places. That’s how I feel about Split, I can remember exactly where I ate and what I had, and suddenly the rest of the trip’s experiences fall into place little by little. 

Bokeria, Split, Croatia

Bokeria, Split, Croatia

1. Bokeria

Det allerførste sted jeg spiste, da vi ankom til Split en trist og regnfyldt dag var Bokeria. Både Sam og jeg havde på forhånd undersøgt, hvor der var værd at spise, Bokeria fremgik af den liste. Restauranten er ret stor og inddelt i to etager. Stedet var proppet med sultne frokostgæster, men det lykkedes os at score os et bord på øverste etage. Her fik jeg den skønneste, sprøde og friske beef salad akkompagneret af rosé.

 

Da vi vendte tilbage til Split en uge senere kom vi tilbage for at drikke mere rosé en sen aften efter aftensmad, hvilket stedet også er helt perfekt til.

 

The very first place I ate when we arrived in Split a sad and rainy day was Bokeria. Both Sam and I had read up on where to eat in Split, Bokeria was on that list. The restaurant is pretty big and divided into to floors. The place was cramped with hungry lunch guests, but we managed to score ourselves a table on the top floor. Here I got the loveliest, crunchiest and freshest beef salad with a side of rosé. 

 

When we returned to Split a week later we went back to drink more rosé a late night after dinner, which the place was quite perfect for too. 

 

Bokeria, 2 Cosmijeva Ulica, Split, Croatia.

Villa Spiza

Villa Spiza, Split, Croatia

Villa Spiza, Split, Croatia

Villa Spiza, Split, Croatia

Villa Spiza, Split, Croatia

2. Villa Spiza

Villa Spiza var et af de steder jeg havde læst om i min Lonely Planet – og det kan jeg afsløre, at der var andre der også havde. Vi spottede i hvert fald adskillige andre turister med den ikoniske blå guidebog under armen og sultne blikke. Vi lærte hurtigt, at idet Villa Spiza er en meget lille restaurant og vældig populær blandt de lokale, så man skal være heldig for at score sig et bord som turist. Men vi var fast besluttede og gav os bare til at vente på at der blev plads.

 

Det vidste sig at være hele ventetiden værd. Maden var helt vidunderlig og stemningen i den lille bitte restaurant med åbne bar/køkken var glad og hyggelig. Vi var blevet godt sultne af ventetiden, vi besluttede os for at dele lidt på kryds og tværs og bestilte hurtigt en masse forskellige retter: Grillede rejer, bagte peberfrugter med feta og salat, muslingerisotto og indbagte auberginer.

 

Det var måske turens allerbedste måltid!

 

Villa Spiza was one of those places I’d read about in my Lonely Planet – and I can reveal that other might have done the same. At least we spotted several other tourists with the iconic blue guide book in their hands and hungry looks. We quickly learned that since Villa Spiza is a very small restaurant and extremely popular among the locals, you’ll have to be lucky to get yourself a table as a tourist. But we were determined and found a spot outside to wait until we could get a table. 

 

It turned out to be so worth the wait. The food was wonderful and the atmosphere in the tiny restaurant with the open bar/kitchen was happy and cozy. We were quite hungry from the wait, so we decided to share among all of us and quickly ordered a bunch of different dishes: Grilled shrimps, baked peppers with feta cheese and salad, risotto with mussels and stuffed eggplants.

 

It might every well have been the best meal of the entire trip!

 

Villa Spiza, Ulica Petra Kružića 3, Split, Croatia.

Luka, Split, ice cream, Croatia

Luka, Split, ice cream, Croatia

Luka, Split, ice cream, Croatia

Luka, Split, ice cream, Croatia

3. Luka – Ice cream & cakes

På den søde side er Luka, et lille isted ved et lille hyggeligt torv bag teatret, som vi blev tippet om af en lokal. Luka serverer is i sjove og anderledes smagvarianter som f.eks. lavendel & honning, rosmarin & vanilje og æbletærte, panacotta hindbær, cheesecake, mojito, figne, blommer og appelsin & gulerod. Smagene varierer fra dag til dag og udvalget er begrænset, men godt.

 

Hvis du er glad for is, så er Luka helt bestemt besøgt værd!

 

English: On a sweet note is Luka, a tiny ice cream parlor on the square behind the theater, we were tipped about by a local. Luka serves ice cream in fun and different taste combinations such as lavender and honey, rosemary & vanilla, apple pie, panacota raspberry, blueberry, cheesecake, mojito, figs, plums, orange & carrot. The flavors vary from day to day and the selection is limited, but good. 

 

If you like ice cream, then Luka is definitely worth a visit!

 

Luka – Ice cream & cakes, Svaciceva 2, Split 21 000, Croatia.

Ufo Oil Bar, Split, Croatiia

Ufo Oil Bar, Split, Croatiia

Ufo Oil Bar, Split, Croatiia

Ufo Oil Bar, Split, Croatiia

Ufo Oil Bar, Split, Croatiia

Ufo Oil Bar, Split, Croatiia

Ufo Oil Bar, Split, Croatiia

Ufo Oil Bar, Split, Croatiia

4. Ufo Oil Bar

Jeg endte min ferie på et madmæssigt højdepunkt. Mit allersidste måltid i Split blev indtaget på Ufo Oil Bar og bestod af en skøn tapasanretning, som vi igen delte mellem os. Jeg har aldrig rigtigt delt mad på restauranter før, men australiere (i hvert fald dem jeg rejste med) er pjattede med at dele mad, og jeg kan se hvorfor. Det er en meget mere afslappet og social måde at spise sammen på. Og så får man smagt meget mere forskelligt.

 

Jeg var, som mængden af billede også vidner om, ret vild med indretningen, og restauranten var i det hele taget bare så gennemført og super cool. Udover at nyde lækre tapas og drikke et godt glas vin, kan man også købe diverse kroatiske specialiteter, som olier, vine og karameliserede appelsinskaller. Perfekte feriegaver!

 

I ended my vacation on a food high. My very last meal in Split was enjoyed at Ufo Oil Bar and consisted of a lovely tapas place, which we again shared. I’ve never really shared food in restaurants before, but Australians (at least the ones I traveled with) are big on sharing food, and I understand why. It’s a much more relaxed and social way to share a meal. And you get to try much more than you normally would have. 

 

I was, as the amount of photos bare witness to, excited about the decor, and the entire restaurant was super cool. In addition to enjoying delicious tapas and a great glass of wine, you can also buy various Croatian specialities such as oils, wine and caramelized orange peel. Perfect vacation gifts!

 

Ufo Oli Bar, Dominisova 3, Split, Croatia.